Gaztelugatxe is an islet on the coast of Biscay. It is
connected to the mainland by a man-made bridge. On top of the island stands a
hermitage (named Gaztelugatxeko Doniene in Basque; San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in
Spanish), dedicated to John the Baptist, that dates from the 9th century.
With another small neighboring island, Aketx, they form a
protected biotope that extends from the town of Bakio until Cape Matxitxako, on
the Bay of Biscay.
The strategic location of the site has given it an important
role in historic episodes. It was one of the places where the Lord of Biscay,
Juan Núñez de Lara, confronted Alfonso XI, King of Castile, in 1334.
In 1594 it was attacked by the Huguenots of La Rochelle, who
sacked it and killed the caretaker. In the 18th century it was assaulted by
English troops; in the Spanish Civil War the naval Battle of Cape Machichaco
took place nearby.
It is not so much the 231 steps up to the hermitage that
wears one out in 32oC; the return walk to my car was a lot steeper, longer and
hotter. Luckily, a well-placed café helped out.